How to Install a Portable Hangboard with Zero Damage to Your Wall

Do you hesitate to buy a hangboard because
it’s complicated to install? Do you live in a rented apartment and can’t drill a
hole in the wall? Don’t worry. Here is a step-by-step guide for installing hangboard
with no damage to your wall. Here is a preview of what it looks like. First, you will have to prepare all the necessary
tools and parts, which include obviously your favorite hangboard, an Iron Gym pull-up bar,
which you can easily order from Amazon, two half-inch galvanized flange, and two half-
inch by 4-inch galvanized steel pipe nipple, which you can get from Home Depot or your
local tool store. Also, you need duct tape, a pair of hotel slippers, and 8 wood screws
that fit the holes of the galvanized flange. I will choose size 14 screws with the length
of ¾ inch. And obviously you also need a screwdriver and a drill. Second, you will have to assemble everything
together. The instructions from the Iron Gym pull-up bar are pretty clear, so you should
be able to follow them to assemble the pull-up bar without a problem. Now we will connect
the galvanized flange to the galvanized steel pipe nipple. Next, we will unscrew the cap
of the pull-up bar off by hand. We can see that if we try to fit the galvanized steel
pipe nipple into the bar, it will be a bit too loose, so what we can do here is to wrap
one layer of duct tape around the galvanized steel pipe nipple to make it thicker to create
a pressure fit. This is actually surprisingly sturdy as you can see. No matter how hard
I shake it, it won’t fall off. After that, we will attach the back of the hangboard directly
to the galvanized flange. Once we figure out the optimal position, we can use a pen to
mark where the holes are on the hangboard. Then we can start drilling pilot holes for
our screws with the drill. Don’t be afraid to drill a deep hole because if you don’t,
you will have a hard time screwing the screws into the hole. Once the pilot holes are drilled,
we can screw in the screws and it’s done! If you have a plastic hangboard, you will
have to get an extra piece of wood, serving as a bridge to connect the hangboard and the
galvanized flange. If the pull-up bar gets in the way, you can always take it off temporarily,
and put it back when you are done with screwing. This is what it looks like when you finish
assembling it. Lastly, you will have to put it on the top
of your door. Here is how we can put the pull-up bar on the top of the door. On one side, the
rubber wall protector sits on the top of the door ledge, and on the other side, the outer
bar grips latch onto the door frame with friction. One potential issue is that the friction here
might cause damage to the door frame in the long run, so in order to counter this problem,
we put a pair of hotel slippers on the bars to ease the friction. Another thing to pay
attention to is that the hangboard should face the opposite direction of where the door
swings open. There you have it. This set-up is ready for hangboard training. Thanks for watching. Make sure to like and
subscribe. See you in the next video.

64 thoughts on “How to Install a Portable Hangboard with Zero Damage to Your Wall

  1. Smart

    But now you can't do normal pullups lol. Ohwell, these things are like $10 anyways, can always get another one =D

  2. I tried something similar to this and pulled the top of my door frame off the wall. I have an old house….

  3. it's awesome. this is the biggest problem i m facing. 😀
    but are the shoes helpful for long term? does it cause dents on the door frame?

  4. Hi! Great video, I've always wanted to set up a hangboard but live in an apartment. A request… Could you provide eurofriendly links? For the same kind of items but for order in maybe I dont know what to search for and i cant find the same items there…

  5. why cant you drill straight through a plastic hangboard? i'd like to get one since they tend to be cheaper (not in the US so customs would make the Royal Edge hangboard too expensive)

  6. Had a major problem finding #14 screws in 3/4" (shortest was 1" which is too long for royal edge boards), so I went with #12 3/4" screws which also better fit the countersinks in the floor flange.

    Also keep in mind your pilot hole sizes will differ if the board is for some reason made of softwood, but I can't imagine they would be.

  7. I just did this setup in my room, and I'm already nervous about breaking the door mantel. Is this safe for a door frame in drywall?

  8. Very useful instruction. Overall good step by step video but next time dont scream the intro as if you try to scare of your grandma.

  9. Ive had this set up for a few months now. Confirmed that it's sturdy, and the tape 'nipple' system is solid, my board has never slipped out or even so much as moved. Just wanna point out something for people to watch out for: due to the way the pullup bar is designed, it wants most of its downward force applied as close to that horizontal bar as possible, so the doorframe force is, well, down. Depending on how wide your door is, and how far out your actual holds are mounted, the down force of you hanging can start to warp the plastic part thats above the door frame. In my case, this caused the edges of the plastic part to literally push into the drywall causing damage. Im personally not mad at all, and its an easy spackle fix, just a heads up for others trying this.

  10. Biggest problem I'm having is getting the galvanized nipples into the pull-up bar. When I try to insert, the duck tape bunches up and then I can only get half inside (and it gets really stuck and hard to take out and try again). Any feedback for how to avoid this?

  11. Omg this is the most simple set up and comprehensive tutorial ever. Dunno why this never came up when I've been searching a way forever. Thanks!

  12. I just tried to do this, but my pull up bar is bending whenever I hang. I’m afraid it will give way and break. I’m 170lbs. Anyone having this issue too?

  13. Do you have any concerns about the strength of the door frame to hold up the pull-up bar set up? Thank you!! I am a little to build this!

  14. Yeah… Those will leave markings on your door frames and the bracket above the door frame will even leave a mark on the wall… If you live in a rented space you will probably need to pay for those damages…

  15. Wait people actually listen to those landlords who say they cant drill holes in the walls? I'd be like dude im giving you all this money, I'll drill holes all I want. As long as you fill them up when you leave its really their problem.

  16. Does an ordinary door frame hold this in the long run?
    As far as I know, door frames can break from hanging on them with your fingers directly.
    Or is this setup fine since that black bar on the other side distributes the force pretty evenly over a larger area of the frame?

  17. Why do I need to add the bridge? Why can't I just drill my Trango hangboard into the board i put my flanges on?

  18. You don't need a drill. There are pre-drilled holes that match up perfectly for the flange. I used two screws for each flange because they were two pre-drilled holes on each side and I think that's plenty since I'm only 150 lbs, 4 screws should be plenty.

  19. Great guide, it must be popular because I went on Amazon to get some of the materials and the "often bought together" items were more of the necessary materials from this guide.

  20. Quick question, wont the 4 screws from the flanges eventually crack and split either the hangboard from back or even the back wooden bridge from the pinpoint pressure from using the hangboard over time as I'm 160 lb's???

    I'm just wondering, because this looks like a very a practical solution, but also want to avoid damaging a wooden hangboard, or even falling off it from this type of failure. Please let me know your thoughts and experiences on using this solution.

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