Climbing One Of The Most Challenging Routes In Europe: El Bon Combat


[SOMBRE MUSIC PLAYING] ETHAN PRINGLE: Come on! Come on! [GROANS] FELIPE CAMARGO:
Sport climbing is an obsession. Demands so much effort. Why do we do this? Why do we invest,
like, months, sometimes years? [GRUNTS] No! I grew up in São José do Rio Preto. It’s this small city like, four,
five hours away from São Paulo. I went to this recreational center
one day with my brother. I was 10. Saw this little climbing wall,
tried it, never really stopped ever since. I was fascinated. I was like fuck,
this is cool, you know? [TRANQUIL MUSIC PLAYING] There was no other
10-year-old kids climbing. I didn’t know
if I was good. I just really liked it
and kept doing it. Climbing wasn’t popular. I think we only had like four rock
climbing gyms in the whole country. So, it was really hard
for me to compete. Then we heard about this
youth championship in Guatemala. I really wanted to go. But my family didn’t really have
that much money to just send me there. But we were talking about it
in the gym and this guy heard us, and was like, “Maybe I can
try to help out somehow. I got something for you guys
but it’s not really money. [LAUGHS] So, they just gave us a ton of soda. In the end, we made enough
to pay for my ticket. I was 14,
I didn’t speak English or Spanish. I went by myself.
Just went for it. What happened there
changed everything. People started talking about me
in South America. [CROWD CHEERING AND WHISTLING] [UPBEAT MUSIC PLAYING] ETHAN: The reason Felipe’s story is impressive to me is that he made a really elite level
of performance rock climbing happen with way fewer resources
than most people. For us in America and for people
in Europe, you know, we had state of the art climbing
gyms almost 20 years ago. And in Brazil, they just had little,
like, plywood home walls basically. FELIPE: I wanna show that
it’s possible to climb hard from anywhere in the world,
you know. Of course it’s easier if you have
amazing training facility, but there’s no reason that
Brazilians can’t be climbing 9b or South Americans
can’t be climbing 9b. [SOMBRE MUSIC PLAYING] ETHAN: The way I would describe a 9b
to a non-climber is like, if you can think of the smallest
hand-holds you can possibly think of and you put like 50 of them
up a wall at a 20 to 30 degree angle
with very few rests. It’s [BLEEP] hard. It’s really hard.
[LAUGHS] FELIPE: I think there’s around
15 people in the world that have climbed 9b, so it’s huge. I want to be in that
select group of people and be the first South American
to do it. I’ve been training here in São Paolo specifically to go to Spain
to try to do El Bon Combat. [UPBEAT MUSIC PLAYING] ETHAN: It’s safe to say that El Bon Combat is one of
the hardest routes in the world. There isn’t a single easy
move on the route. It’s got some crazy, unique holds
that you don’t see anywhere else. I dream about the route,
I dream about the moves. It’s definitely an obsession. I try to simulate the boulders
and the hardest moves on the route. I was lucky to find
these perfect two little pebbles that are really similar
to the pebbles on the route. [DRILLING] I also found these two finger
pockets, just like on the rock. I found a hold
that worked perfect for that. I had to get over two
and squeeze the third finger in. ETHAN:
Everyone who works on something that’s near their perceived limit has to break it up
into manageable sections. You start with the smallest details,
like how to grab the holds, where to put your feet, how to
position your body for the big moves and then you just expand on that, trying to bite off
bigger and bigger pieces. [SOMBRE MUSIC PLAYING] FELIPE: Why do we do this? Why do we invest, like,
months, sometimes years? Obsessed about getting to the
top of that climb without falling. For sure gonna get frustrated. That uncertainty, you know,
will I be able to do it or not? If you’re a professional climber,
Spain is just the place to be. It’s like Hawaii is for surfers,
Spain is for climbers, you know. For sport climbers. I first heard of El Bon Combat
a few years ago. This route, graded 9b,
from Chris Sharma. ETHAN: The fact
that it’s only seen one ascent since its first ascent in 2015 probably means
that it’s like, pretty hard. When Chris proposed that grade, that would’ve made it the third
hardest route in the world. Come on, get it, dude! So far, we go up the route
three times per day. That’s kind of like a lot of tries. [FELIPE GROANS] FELIPE: Right when I got here, I felt like the simulators
that I set at the gym helped a lot. Before the two top cruxes, like, I felt really good
on those moves since day one. So I feel like it’s just
a little bit of muscle memory from what I was
doing in the gym already. ETHAN: Come on, Felipe. Come on! FELIPE: No! ETHAN: Hey, dude! That was epic! -Good job!
FELIPE: Thanks. Yeah, I got the pocket pretty well,
adjusted, jumped. And then, I got this right hand
kind of badly… ETHAN: Yeah.
-…so I like, -got up, harder than normally…
ETHAN: Yeah. …then I got the potato
and I was like, oh. Then I wanted to shake left
hand and I got palmed on the right. I was like, aw, I think I blew it. ETHAN: So close, dude.
FELIPE: Stoked. I was thinking, and I was kind of starting
to feel a little bit of pressure. I do have some bad thoughts, like, shit, now this rain’s gonna
come. What if… ETHAN: So you definitely start
imagining what if I don’t do it this season
for some reason, like, what if I hurt myself. Skin is not as good as we’d hoped,
as I would like it to be, but… Yeah. It’s alright. It’s been worse. [TRANQUIL MUSIC PLAYING] I think that top’s too gonna give me
a little bit of trouble. -Yeah.
-Those ones are hard for me. I could see you falling
on the last move for sure, though. Look at this secret. Keep yourself stoked. ETHAN: You got this, dude. FELIPE: Another try. [FELIPE SIGHS] First try of the day,
it felt really good. Made it through that middle crux
and then got to the rest, was feeling like super fresh,
I was pumped. And then, yeah, got the two
finger pocket really nicely. ETHAN: Come on, you got it.
Come on, get it, dude. Yes, so good! And as I was gonna jump
to the sloper, I just popped the left foot. [SCREAMS] I broke the hold. No! ETHAN: Oh, my God.
FELIPE: Broke the foot. ETHAN: Are you serious?
FELIPE: Yeah. ETHAN: Holy shit. First it was a bummer,
because I was feeling great. I was sure that I was gonna ascend. And then
the move got a little harder, too. I was like, oh, no. You know, I don’t know
if I can do it again. I broke the hold and now
the rain’s gonna come in. [RAIN PATTERING] Really surprised with the weather. A bit too cold for the Brazilian. Today was already
really windy and cloudy and… But it could just rain
for a few days. Yeah. -So this is the extended forecast.
-Yeah. ETHAN: Where are we now?
FELIPE: This is tomorrow. ETHAN: Okay.
FELIPE: 12 millimeters. ETHAN: 12 millimeters.
FELIPE: 15 millimeters. Ten millimeters. If it rains a lot in the morning
and into the night, it’s not gonna dry, you know. When the rain’s coming, you feel
the humidity and everything. I just hope it’s not like that because the conditions really
change everything on this route. It’s like nonstop rain. It looks crazy. [SOMBRE MUSIC PLAYING] [SIGHS] I mean, should I be honest and say, like, should I talk about
what happened with those guys? DAVID LAMA:
Alright, Felipe, I’m on belay! [GLOOMY MUSIC PLAYING] After hearing the news about David
and those guys, it totally changed my mentality. I’m pretty bummed about them,
and I’m thinking about them so much that I forgot about
the route a little bit. I wasn’t really, you know,
worrying about it. It makes you put things
in perspective, for sure. [GLOOMY MUSIC CONTINUES PLAYING] [FELIPE BREATHES HEAVILY] ETHAN: Come on. Come on, you got this. Come on.
Everything you got! Come on! Yes! That’s it. Yeah. Yeah. Nice, man. Nice, Felipe.
Nice, Felipe. Come on, dude. Come on. You got it. Yeah, dude, yeah. Nice, Felipe. Come on. Yeah, dude. Yeah, dude. Cruisin. So good. So good. Yeah. Nice, dude.
Everything you got! Come on! Breathe. Yeah. Yeah, dude. Come on. Try hard. [SOMBRE MUSIC PLAYING] Come on, Felipe. Come on, dude. Come on. Come on.
Come on, get it. Come on! Yes, dude. Come on. Nice. [SOMBRE MUSIC CONTINUES PLAYING] [BREATHING HEAVILY] Come on, dude. Come on, Filipe. Come on. Come on. Get it, dude. Come on. Nice. You got this. Come on. Come on. Yes, dude! Now, relax. Come on, Felipe. You got this, dude.
Come on. Try hard. Come on. Yes, come on, Felipe! Everything you got! Come on! Come on, it’s yours! Come on! Yeah, dude! [SOMBRE MUSIC CONTINUES PLAYING] Yeah! [ETHAN CHEERS] [ETHAN CONTINUES CHEERING] [UPBEAT MUSIC PLAYING] FELIPE: Why do we do this?
I guess it’s this unknown challenge. When you first try it, you don’t know if you’re gonna be
capable to do it or not, you know? It’s something that’s gonna be
so hard for you and you just have to be dedicated,
train hard and try your best. I really just wanted to
push the limit for myself and for Brazil
and for South America¸ you know, just to show that it’s possible
for us too, you know. It’s possible that we can do it. Ah! [ETHAN CHEERING] [UPBEAT MUSIC CONTINUES PLAYING]

100 thoughts on “Climbing One Of The Most Challenging Routes In Europe: El Bon Combat

  1. Interested to know how climbers sleep while climbing? Check this video out, where Felipe Camargo and Sasha DiGiulian spend the night at 1,200 feet (365 meters) above the ground: https://youtu.be/Bif7cMk2Cys

  2. Come on! Come on! You get it dude! Come on! Yes duuude! Come on! You've got this! Come on! Come on! Yes! Come on! Come on! Nice! Come on! Come on! You've got this! Come on!

    AAAAAAAHHH! Just shut up god damnit xD

  3. wtheck.

    His English is great.
    Watching Netflix's Ultimate Beastmaster, I was led to believe that he didn't speak a lick of English.

  4. If anyone is curious I'm pretty sure the Sao Paulo gym he was in is Fabrica Escalada in the Itaim Bibi neighborhood. Definitely worth checking out if you're in the area.

  5. I heard about his feat when I visited the climbing gym he practices in here in São Paulo. You have no idea how happy watching this videos makes me.
    Great work to everyone involved!
    🇧🇷🍻💜

  6. C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude C'mon dude c'mon dude yes good c'mon dude yeah good dude

  7. Simplesmente fantástico. Muleke guerreiro, sangue nos olhos, merecedor de cada uma de suas conquistas, sempre correu atras de seus sonhos sem Mi-MI-Mi. E o mais bacana de tudo, continua humilde da mesma forma como qdo o conheci. Parabéns Felipe, grande ídolo!!!

  8. So good! Great job with this film, and congrats to Felipe! One of the best climbing films I've seen recently, please do more climbing content!

  9. In assasin's creed Kassandra/Alexios be like "ameature , I can do this all day "
    .
    This is just game reference ✌️😂

  10. This video is so special to me, I've always felt so disadvantaged in climbing, coming from a tiny local gym with few hard climbs. I would meet these kids in competitions who've been climbing since they were toddlers and see them on a team, with coaches, in a huge fancy gym, and always going on expensive trips to climb outdoors. I've always felt frustrated competing with them, I felt like the only reason they beat me was because they had been climbing their whole life and had all the resources to push their climbing, while I never had the privileges and had only been climbing for a year. I never got to climb outdoors, never had a professional coach, never had access to a proper climbing gym. I always pushed myself so hard, wishing to somehow beat these people and reach into the elite levels of climbing, and I prayed that I could because I felt like I had talent, having climbed v11 and 13c in less than a year and a half, with many injuries. This video has shown me it is possible to succeed in the greatest fashion even without the resources and privileges of others. Thank you.

  11. Congrats Felipe 🙂 I loved the genuine outburst of emotions after sending. That's what you climb for – all the emotions and moments 🙂

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *